The Art of Leather at Poyter
At Poyter, leather is the cornerstone of every men’s shoe we create, and crafting it requires a mastery of skill and tradition. As a general rule, the more expertly processed the leather, the finer its quality—and naturally, this refinement comes at a cost. Approximately 47% of the expenses involved in producing a Poyter men’s shoe are attributed to the premium raw materials we use.
Our crust leather is sourced from Italy’s esteemed Conceria Tolio, the same supplier favoured by brands like Santoni and Berluti.
Leather is Fascinating
Shoes are one of those items that need to be of high quality since they go through the most wear and tear, whether running a marathon or walking miles for your daily commute.
Every year tens of new brands are advertising themselves as “genuine leather” shoe providers, but do you get the value for your money and the grade of leather that you have been looking for?
Sourcing Our Leather
Leather today has become an integral part of the upscale and classy formal shoe-making industry, reflecting upon a luxurious and enviable lifestyle. Because of the importance of the correct leather sourcing choice, Poyter has only a few selected leather suppliers that maintain credible ratings in terms of quality. These tanneries provide our craftsmen a variety of skins and hides attained both locally and internationally.
Our calf leathers are sourced from renowned tanneries in North West Spain, Germany, and Italy, ensuring exceptional quality at every stage. Below is an overview of the various leather types we use, each bringing a distinct look and texture to our luxury footwear.
Type of Leathers We Use
Leather is produced from animal hides. We only use fine-quality cowhide and calfskin for our formal men’s shoes for the upper sole. Our casual shoes are made from sheepskin suede, cowhide suede, and reverse calf suede. Sued is split leather, obtained from the lower side of the skin, having the classic velour or suede effect.
Our quality leather soles are made from cuts of cow leather bends that have been tanned over long periods.
Painted Calf Leather:
Crust calf leather, also known as painted calf, provides the perfect canvas for hand-painting with specialised creams and brushes. The artisanal finish offers a unique aesthetic, often enhanced with textures like full grain or pebble grain.
Box Calf Leather:
Box calf leather is the gold standard for high-quality men’s shoes, prized for its fine grain, pliability, and durability. This leather undergoes hand-painting by our skilled artisans, giving each pair a sophisticated and elegant finish.
Calf Suede:
Sometimes referred to as “Lux Suede,” this soft and supple leather is crafted from the underside of the hide, giving it a velvety “furry nap” texture. Ideal for casual yet refined styles.
Kid Suede
Sourced from small goat hides, kid suede is exceptionally soft, with a velvety texture and fine grain. The smaller hide size increases its cost, but its luxurious finish is well worth the investment.
Polished Calf Leather
Polished calf is a rectified grain leather designed to remove imperfections, resulting in a sleek, luxurious appearance. While it lacks the natural texture of full-grain leather, its opulent look is unmatched. This leather type requires additional post-production processes, making it one of the more premium options.
Patent Leather
Patent leather undergoes a unique finishing process to achieve a highly glossy, mirror-like shine, perfect for formal occasions.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck is a lightweight, velvety leather created by buffing the outer layer of the hide. Its smooth texture and supple feel make it a favourite for understated luxury.
Sartorial Materials
In our “Create Your Own” collection, we combine sartorial fabrics such as tweed, tartan, velvet, and herringbone with hand-painted leather. The fusion of materials creates astonishingly unique designs that stand out effortlessly.
Exotic Leathers
Alligator Leather
Sourced primarily from the southeastern United States, American alligator leather is both durable and supple. Its distinctive dimpled scales and natural strength make it a prized material for bespoke shoes. The softness of alligator leather, compared to crocodile skin, allows for greater flexibility in crafting intricate designs.
Ostrich Leather
Ostrich leather is celebrated for its softness, flexibility, and unparalleled durability. Its natural oils prevent cracking, even under extreme conditions. The iconic “quill” markings, formed by feather follicles, make full-quill ostrich leather the most sought-after and luxurious option.
Python Leather
Python leather, known for its striking scale patterns and textures, offers a truly exotic finish. We use “front-cut” python leather, which showcases the small scales at the centre of the hide. This material is lightweight, strong, and undeniably distinctive.
Sometimes based on customer’s choice, for example, the North of England that faces a long period of snowfall, we produce our dress shoes with leather soles and a rubber grip built-in. It keeps the formal look of leather-soled shoes while securing the grip on the ground. We can provide shows for all parts of the UK and all-weather types.