The Art of Leather at Poyter
At Poyter, leather is the cornerstone of every men’s shoe we create, and crafting it requires a mastery of skill and tradition. As a general rule, the more expertly processed the leather, the finer its quality—and naturally, this refinement comes at a cost. Approximately 47% of the expenses involved in producing a Poyter men’s shoe are attributed to the premium raw materials we use.
Our crust leather is sourced from Italy’s esteemed Conceria Tolio, the same supplier favoured by brands like Santoni and Berluti.
Leather is fascinating.
Shoes are one of those items that need to be of high quality since they go through the most wear and tear, whether running a marathon or walking miles for your daily commute.
Every year tens of new brands are advertising themselves as “genuine leather” shoe providers, but do you get the value for your money and the grade of leather that you have been looking for?
Sourcing Our Leather
Leather today has become an integral part of the upscale and classy formal shoe-making industry, reflecting upon a luxurious and enviable lifestyle. Because of the importance of the correct leather sourcing choice, Poyter has only a few selected leather suppliers that maintain credible ratings in terms of quality. These tanneries provide our craftsmen a variety of skins and hides attained both locally and internationally.
Our calf leathers are sourced from renowned tanneries in North West Spain, Germany, and Italy, ensuring exceptional quality at every stage. Below is an overview of the various leather types we use, each bringing a distinct look and texture to our luxury footwear.
Type of Leathers We Use
Leather is produced from animal hides. We only use fine-quality cowhide and calfskin for our formal men’s shoes for the upper sole. Our casual shoes are made from sheepskin suede, cowhide suede, and reverse calf suede. Sued is split leather, obtained from the lower side of the skin, having the classic velour or suede effect.
Our quality leather soles are made from cuts of cow leather bends that have been tanned over long periods.
Leather Types We Use at Poyter
Painted Calf Leather
Crust calf leather, also known as painted calf, provides the perfect canvas for hand-painting with specialised creams and brushes. The artisanal finish offers a unique aesthetic, often enhanced with textures like full grain or pebble grain.
Box Calf Leather
Box calf leather is the gold standard for high-quality men’s shoes, prized for its fine grain, pliability, and durability. This leather undergoes hand-painting by our skilled artisans, giving each pair a sophisticated and elegant finish.
Calf Suede
Sometimes referred to as “Lux Suede,” this soft and supple leather is crafted from the underside of the hide, giving it a velvety “furry nap” texture. Ideal for casual yet refined styles.
Kid Suede
Sourced from small goat hides, kid suede is exceptionally soft, with a velvety texture and fine grain. The smaller hide size increases its cost, but its luxurious finish is well worth the investment.
Polished Calf Leather
Polished calf is a rectified grain leather designed to remove imperfections, resulting in a sleek, luxurious appearance. While it lacks the natural texture of full-grain leather, its opulent look is unmatched. This leather type requires additional post-production processes, making it one of the more premium options.
Patent Leather
Patent leather undergoes a unique finishing process to achieve a highly glossy, mirror-like shine, perfect for formal occasions.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck is a lightweight, velvety leather created by buffing the outer layer of the hide. Its smooth texture and supple feel make it a favourite for understated luxury.
Sartorial Materials
In our “Create Your Own” collection, we combine sartorial fabrics such as tweed, tartan, velvet, and herringbone with hand-painted leather. The fusion of materials creates astonishingly unique designs that stand out effortlessly.
Exotic Leathers
Alligator Leather
Sourced primarily from the southeastern United States, American alligator leather is both durable and supple. Its distinctive dimpled scales and natural strength make it a prized material for bespoke shoes. The softness of alligator leather, compared to crocodile skin, allows for greater flexibility in crafting intricate designs.
Ostrich Leather
Ostrich leather is celebrated for its softness, flexibility, and unparalleled durability. Its natural oils prevent cracking, even under extreme conditions. The iconic “quill” markings, formed by feather follicles, make full-quill ostrich leather the most sought-after and luxurious option.
Python Leather
Python leather, known for its striking scale patterns and textures, offers a truly exotic finish. We use “front-cut” python leather, which showcases the small scales at the centre of the hide. This material is lightweight, strong, and undeniably distinctive.
Sometimes based on customer’s choice, for example, the North of England that faces a long period of snowfall, we produce our dress shoes with leather soles and a rubber grip built-in. It keeps the formal look of leather-soled shoes while securing the grip on the ground. We can provide shows for all parts of the UK and all-weather types.
The Quality of Our Leather
Our outer leather is top-grade clean calf skins “vellum” with tight break and creasing. Our shoes are made of either full-grain leather or top-grain leather, which has not been buffed or sanded. These are types of breathable leather that have been minimally treated to keep natural imperfections intact that play into the beautiful aesthetic of the shoe.
In addition, because this type of leather has not undergone harsh treatments, it can age well with proper care and last for years. This grade of leather is a strong material that will develop an extraordinary patina as it ages and last for years with appropriate care.
The Leather We Do NOT Use
Never get deceived by a sales pitch offering “genuine leather.” Even the lowest grade leather obtained from an animal hide can be named genuine leather. However, remember it is cheap to make and is your run-of-the-mill, typical shoe in your local affordable shop and hundreds of online stores.
We never use man-made bonded leather or PU leather.
We also do not use semi man-made leather board that is cheap to produce. The leather board has no natural fibre structure to ensure the integrity of its material.
What are Different Types of Leather Used in Shoe Industry?
Aside from the construction of a shoe, the other most important aspect is the choice and quality of leather. At the foundation of a good, high-quality shoe is suitable, high-quality leather. Leather remains the most popular shoe-making material in the industry globally because of its durability and flexibility. When you say your shoes are made of genuine leather, you know you’re at the leading edge of high fashion.
Each leather undergoes many steps to produce the result. Some of them are perfect for rougher use and scuff resistance, while others are more delicate and for more formal occasions.
Types of leather used in the shoe industry
Crust Leather
Leathers that have been tanned but not finished are referred to as being “in the crust.” Crust leather is of a neutral beige color. It is to be seen as a blank canvas for the shoemaker to work with, enabling the creation of entirely custom coloration by applying a combination of dyes and various pigmented creams and wax polishes.
Crust leather is comparably high maintenance but provides a blank canvas for antiquing and quickly develops an exquisite richness in colour and patina.
Aniline Leather
On the other hand, aniline leathers are pre-dyed and fully finished when they leave the tannery, where they are tumbled in drums containing aniline dyes, allowing the dyestuff to penetrate and saturate the leather thoroughly. Aniline leather is the most natural-looking leather, with the unique surface characteristics of the hide remaining visible.
During the aniline dyeing process, the leather is not uniform in colour due to the different absorption rates from area to area. This is a testament to the genuineness of the leather finish and adds to the beauty of the finish. The aniline dye, mixed with oils, soaks into the leather, giving it added softness and a rich look.
Box Leather
The vast majority of quality men’s shoes are made from this kind of leather. Although the box calf has a pliable feel, it is firm in inconsistency. Its grain side is embossed with an excellent grain pattern that is beautiful to behold. Box calf is chrome-tanned and is either fully dyed or merely primed. It is 1 to 1.2 millimeters thick, and a single cut of box calf leather can yield uppers for up to 3 pairs of shoes, provided that the models in question require a relatively small amount of leather, such as Derby shoes.
European Leather
With prevalent countries like England and Italy, it comes as no surprise that Europe has a significant shoe-making heritage. Indeed, their craftsmanship is revered around the world.
Tanners in Europe have a long tradition of producing all kinds of leather, from bovine and calf leather to sheep and goat leather, from sole and exotic specialties to double-face garment leather. Their expertise contributes to the success of leading footwear manufacturers.
Suede Leather
Suede is a reverse aniline leather made from the flesh side (reverse side) of leather. It is buffed to a soft nap during the tanning process, which is the raised surface that allows it to be brushed back and forth.
Suede is typically used for more casual occasions, so it is perfect for the intelligent yet casual driving shoe. Due to the relaxed nature of suede, it lends itself to an array of colours, often vibrant.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck is an aniline-dyed full-grain leather that has been lightly buffed and sanded on the grain side. Nubuck is similar to suede in that it has a nap. However, it is polished on the grain side of the leather rather than the flesh (reverse) side. Because nubuck is made from top-grain leather, it is more durable and challenging compared to suede. However, it is more vulnerable to soiling and staining than other leathers due to its rough surface.
Not only is it comfortable, but it also does not require polishing or shining, unlike some other leather types. It requires less maintenance than many different kinds of leather due to its velvety surface, which requires occasional cleaning.
Exotic Leather
Examples of exotic leather made for the shoe industry include the skins of the ostrich, crocodile or alligator, eel, lizard, snake, even shark. One of the more common exotic materials is snakeskin. Long a choice for shoes and boots alike, snakeskin is a highly durable material.
To find the best shoe, you need to be informed when making a purchasing decision for your next pair of shoes. When you understand the elements that go into creating a high-quality handcrafted leather shoe, you are better prepared to acquire the best pair of shoes you have ever owned.
A Commitment to Excellence
At Poyter, every leather we use reflects our commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Whether you choose classic painted calf or exotic python, each shoe is meticulously crafted to deliver a truly luxurious experience. If you’d like to explore bespoke options or have a specific request, feel free to get in touch with us.